One Mile Jetty

An early start was in order as our plans for the day included a walk along the salt flats across Babbage Island to the mouth of the Gascoyne River to have a look at the Carnarvon One Mile Jetty. This wooden jetty was built in 1897 and was the first port in Australia where livestock was transported by sea and continued to provide a lifeline to Carnarvon until the main road was sealed in 1966.

We had a look at the map, and after breakfast at the local cafe we rowed the dinghy in circles to a little beach next to the walkway, and set off, following the railway tracks. It seemed a fair hike so we kitted up with drinks, lollies and hiking shoes. I had bought a brand new pair of expensive hiking boots in Kathmandu in Perth before we left and Margie donned her 'el cheapo' Rivers' joggers. We packed the camera gear and set off in the crisp morning air with clear blue skies.

The steel rails of the narrow gauge railway were rusty with neglect, the sleepers having been somnolent for so long with no load to bear and were falling apart. We pressed on down the track for about an hour until Margie declared that she was getting really painful blisters from her new shoes and decided that walking barefoot through this snake infested sand track was the lesser of the two evils. By contrast, my expensive hiking boots were an absolute pleasure to wear and as comfortable as a grandmothers hug!

Eventually we came a round the bend in the track to a cross roads that leads past a railway museum stacked with old and rusted carriages and tractors, past a miniature lighthouse and into a thoroughly modern cafe and kiosk looking strangely out of kilter with the rest of the detritus of history.

We climbed up the disused water tower, ignoring the health warnings to the aged and infirm to observe, from a height, the mouth of the mighty Gascoyne River and the accusatory finger of history pointing crookedly out to sea which was the One Mile Jetty that we had trekked so far to see.

Nobody seems to know if the jetty is actually one mile long or how much of an estimate that is. Fortunately, there is a small train that wobbles its way along the jetty to take the curious to the end and for the princely sum of $10 you can avoid counting the yards. The first train was known as the Kia Ora. (A Maori greeting that means 'be well or healthy' a bit like the Aussie G'day! Or if you prefer, a soft drink of the orange variety in the UK). The Kia Ora was a steam train, that had a distinctive coffee pot shaped funnel. The current iteration is a diesel facsimile, also with a coffee pot funnel, but sporting a slightly disturbing, leering face of Thomas of the Tank Engine fame.

We rocked, rolled and rode along in one of two small carriages to the end of the jetty. Well, not quite. It was a bit like 'coitus interuptus' as just at the very end, the jetty was blocked off with no access allowed, as some repairs were under way and have been for several years or maybe even decades. The train tracks at the end curve around in a loop to enable the train to turn around and head proudly back to the kiosk. Sadly, it seems that poor Thomas must run in reverse all the way back which, I'm sure, would not please the 'Fat Controller'! We dismounted from the train and explored the narrow crumbling jetty taking in the views of the Indian Ocean and the rolling waves at the mouth of the Gascoyne River.

 With a blast of the whistle, it was time for Thomas to reverse all the way back to the cafe kiosk for the inevitable cappuccino. After a quick wander around taking some snapshots, we started walking back to Carnarvon. Margie was still suffering with the blisters, so like a gentleman, I stuck out my thumb at the first passing car in the hope of sparing her more pain. The driver got about half a kilometer past us, did a quick you'ee and returned to offer us a lift back to town, declaring that she had decided to take pity on us as the cool of the morning was now the heat of the day.

We thanked her profusely and returned to Moonshadow for an afternoon siesta and to prepare for our 'big night out' at the Carnarvon Yacht Club. Mark and Cathy from Catcha Star had recommended this as a treat due to the quality of their Friday night Fish and Chips. After a restful afternoon we decided to put the outboard onto Toby (our tinny) as it was a fair way down the Fascine from where we were moored and we were fed up of going around in circles with our mismatched oars.

We arrived on the beach fronting the yacht club and set our little anchor amongst the rocks and enjoyed a wonderful hot shower at the clubhouse. We emerged, squeaky clean and met a lovely 'yachtie' couple from Sandringham Yacht Club, Kay and Garry Anderson of the yacht Esprit, who are touring in a caravan checking out the sailing opportunities in Western Australia.

Dinner was superb. The Asian style Shepherds Pie replacing the aforementioned Fish and Chips which were nowhere to be seen. We left the yacht club after exchanging blog and email addresses with Kay and Garry and returned to Moonshadow replete and ready for bed to prepare for a Sunday departure from Carnarvon.

Life is Good!